The thing about Gurgaon is that it doesn’t feel, taste or look like a city, town or a village. Usually there are tell-tale signs for a city or a town and they are pretty obvious. Like for example cities are large and have large cosmopolitan population, tall buildings, entertainment hubs, office and residential complexes, etc. Then there are towns which are smaller, rough looking, they also lack infrastructure support systems, and organized transport systems.
Here is a place which has imbibed the worst of both, it’s large, has office and residential complexes, entertainment centers and yet had no concept of infrastructure support systems or organized transport systems. And as fate would have it I promptly landed a 3 month stint and came over to investigate this piece of terra firma paradox. Like a regular Sherlock Holmes I tried to solve the puzzle by procrastinating on the situation, he used opium while I promptly got drunk only to realize that alcohol doesn’t heighten your mental capabilities instead just puts you to sleep, I lost some precious time in this futile endeavor. Next I decided to do a blood hound, sniffing for clues fortunately for me unlike Mumbai, Gurgaon was easier on the nose but lead nowhere as the barren wasteland smell permeates all. Then I decided to become a classic tourist and ask all the politically incorrect questions, does MG. Road stand for Mahatma Gandhi Road, does ‘Gurgaon’ stand for ‘jaggery village’, what do you do with all the molasses? Fortunately for me after all the frequent travelling I can at least choose the right people to ask the wrong questions to.
Getting nowhere was frustrating me and I was reaching the stage of straining to remember my house address in Bangalore. Taxi drivers started asking me for directions very confidently and that never augers well for a tourist, as that’s the strongest indicator that you have over stayed your welcome. Though I suspect that getting nowhere is a recurrent theme in my life, acting it was completely unacceptable so I struggled on, paid the customary 200 bucks to taxi for each drop (even for 5km ones), saw the roads act as drainage canals in minor (compared to my birth city) unseasonal rains, admired the well fed chicks, realized the differences (between ‘thekas’, ‘ahatay’ and the lack the latter) between Gurgaon and Delhi, started understanding Haryanvi a bit and learnt to tolerate Haldiram’s even. That was not all I had to also contend with a canceled vacation trip, 24 hour power-cut, changing guest house caretakers, the local obsession for ‘parathas’ for breakfast, the extremely expensive and empty malls all in the same trip and not to forget the near equal number of Cows to Theka!
Consider this, on one side I have a very illuminating stay in Gurgaon, I take weekend trips to Delhi, get home cooked food either in guest house or at friends. On the other side is the odd scene around the ladies, akin to bumping into past-lives! As if all this was not enough even a dear friend decides to live the same life by spending weekdays in Gurgaon and going back weekends almost though out my trip, talk about coincidences!
It’s almost like there is a higher purpose to these trips and the answer is eluding me and hiding just beyond my peripheral vision! Maybe the entomology of the name ‘Gurgaon’ as explained by a local has got something to do with it, “Guru-Gaon” ‘village of teachers’ or maybe more accurately ‘The learning village’…..alright, righteous baby … bring it on!